London Fashion Week brimmed with unabridged talent and creativity — from cult names, like Paolo Carzana and Dilara Findikoglu, to the fledgling labels (Louther, Nuba and Olly Shinder) showing as part of talent incubator Fashion East. All of which, in the absence of bigger, heavy-hitting brands, had more space to shine.
Carzana, who drew about 120 people to his show in a cozy pub in Clerkenwell,
Showgoers held out for a late show by Findikoglu, The venue Electrowerkz — a sprawling warehouse known for its alternative club nights.
Simone Rocha turned to the childhood fable, “The Tortoise and the Hare,” Alexa Chung and actresses Fiona Shaw and Bel Powley, made a surprise appearance on the runway, some carrying rabbit or turtle-shaped accessories.
S.S. Daley, which presented reinvented wardrobe staples such as trench coats, rain jackets, duffle coats, bomber jackets and pea coats to a score of ‘80s post-punk British hits from The Smiths, Siouxsie and the Banshees, and the Pet Shop Boys.
Daniel Fletcher’s debut as creative director of Chinese fashion label Mithridate was a similar masterclass in British heritage. Pastel-hued sweaters were tied and swung over the shoulder, while pinstriped Oxford shirts were styled with leather brogues.
Saul Nash collaborated on a collection with athletic-wear maker Lululemon,
Ahluwalia teamed up with jewelry company Pandora
Stefan Cooke and Grace Wales Bonner prioritized in-person previews,
Aaron Esh, 16 Arlington’s Marco Capaldo and Feben Vemmenby of Feben hosted private dinners
Labrum, Karoline Vitto and Tolu Coker opted for presentations, where people could drop in and see the designs throughout the day.
Tolu Coker on why they decided not to show this season
“As a young brand, I think that a runway show every season is not always the most effective way of maximizing resources, which often are very limited.”
Whilst some brands chose to sit out this event some, like John Richmond took the bull by its horns, tore up the rule book and created an event that connected with the audience in a way that was a break from the norm and in true rock and roll style wound up with an after party!